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Theater District: The Best of NYC Dining - Restaurant

Victor's Cafe

What embargo? Great mojitos, ample portions and a festive, tropical atmosphere recreate Old Havana in Times Square.

The Scene

Salsa music, swaying palms and a courteous, accommodating waitstaff are this 40-year-old stalwart's formula for transporting customers to Batiste-era Cuba. It's a great spot for groups and a favorite among celebs--Gloria Estefan and Marc Anthony are regulars.

The Food

Stick with traditional fare. The moist, hearty Cuban tamale, served with a mild pepper sauce, makes a nice starter, as does yuca con mojo, a surprisingly delicious boiled root vegetable. The best entrees have the least appetizing translations: ropa vieja, "old clothes," is meltingly tender shredded skirt steak served with fried and fresh vegetables; veca frita, "fried cow," is toothsome churrasco steak on mashed plantains. Pork dishes are also good. But steer clear of the flavorless seafood, and beware that the heavy-handed kitchen tends to overcook chicken and fish. Desserts are achingly sweet and gloopy--have another mojito instead.

Know Beans

Victor's black beans, rich and smoky, are some of the best in the city. Order extra.

Mint Condition

The garlic that infuses every dish will soon overwhelm your breath. The RX: nibble a sprig of mint leaf from your mojito before leaving.

Phone: (212) 586-7714
Fax: (212) 333-7872